GREAT LAKELAND 3 DAY EVENT
by Keith Henderson and John Walmsley
Why have I waited so long to take part in this superb three day, long distance event in the Lakes? Because, I had not heard of it even though it has taken place annually since 1998.
The format is relaxed in that each day you can choose to do any one of three courses which vary in distance and climb. This year the relatively gentle “Café” course was 21K each day and our preference. The “Wainwright” averaged 30K each day and the “Expert” 40K. You are free to mix and match and it is no surprise that by the third day the numbers on the “Café” course increased considerably. Wimborne’s own Chris Turner showed that he is made of sterner stuff and chose the “Expert” on all three days. We take our hats off to you Chris but only briefly since we needed them for protection from the sun’s rays. What, In the Lake District?
The venue chosen for this year’s event is rather remote in the far North West of Cumbria and is therefore rather less visited and yet it surpasses much of the, dare I say it, “common” parts. Take a look at the map which incorporates Crummock Water and the comparatively tiny Buttermere.
We began on Saturday in the west, parking at the spot used for the Ennerdale Show Ground between Whitehaven and Cockermouth. All overnight gear is transported by the organisers so you are required to place this in dry sacs and only take with you what you will need on the hill. Your rucksack need only be quite small. We set off via Gavel Fell requiring no knock on the head to gain our attention just concentration on the first of many climbs. Descending down to the head of Crummock Water and then upwards to the high fells on the north east side of our favoured lakes we eventually descend to the overnight camp at Hassness on Buttermere. What an idyllic setting and after six and a half hours of strenuous walking a very welcome sight. Dry sacs have been transported and await us. From these we quickly pitch tents and John works his magic with the stove to produce a very welcome brew.
When it’s convenient I have learned to accept a nap in the afternoon and this day was no exception. The overnight sounds of humans at a camp site are various but enlightening. So there are other people who snore!
Day two dawns and is surprisingly cool and somewhat misty. However an immediate punishing climb through the mist and above to “Robinson” at 737 metres soon raises the temperature. No barley water here but a skirt round to Hindscarth and Dale Head. Onwards to the hamlet of Little Town which like Bethlehem deeply lies. From here it’s on up once again to Ard Crags. Aptly named because John had a bad patch here but then so did I but I wasn’t telling him. Then from Knott Rigg a long grassy descent took us down to civilisation but we eschewed their beers and ice creams and proceeded along the lakeside dodging these mere bank holiday mortals to the finish and our beautiful camp site.
After another night at this heavenly spot on the third day we view the calm reflections in the mere on our way to conquer another top, ”Haystacks” beloved by Wainwright and pass by Innominate Tarn where his ashes are scattered. I deviate here but from his Memoirs of a Fellwalker he expresses this wish:
“All I ask for, at the end, is a last long resting place by the side of Innominate Tarn , on Haystacks, where the water gently laps the gravelly shore and the heather blooms and Pillar and Gable keep unfailing watch. A quiet place, a lonely place. I shall go to it, for the last time, and be carried: someone who knew me in life will take me and empty me out of a little box and leave me there alone. And if you ,dear reader, should get a bit of grit in your boot as you are crossing Haystacks in the years to come, please treat it with respect, It might be me.”
Who can blame him?
We left Pillar , Brandreth and the Gables to those on the longer courses and dropped down to the Black Sail Youth Hostel. Not feeling particularly youthful our return to the finish was only a challenge to the feet and stamina in that it was a fifteen kilometre dead run along gravel tracks and tarmac roads. Although this was not particularly exciting I see the planner’s dilemma but it was a shame not to use the gorgeous ridge to the north but running parallel with our route. We would happily have bypassed and left Wainwright to his quiet grave.
Congratulations to Graham Gristwood and the “Ourea Events” team for a memorable weekend.
Photographs by John and Keith
Day 2 course: Start (Buttermere) – 207 Hindscarth summit – 217 tarn – 213 Little Town – 208 path junction –
221 Knot Rigg summit – 222 gate – Finish (Buttermere)
